Day 10 - Biscina to Valfabbrica

To avoid two car journeys from and to the main house where breakfast was served, I took the rucksack to breakfast. The place was again full of pilgrims. An American women told me of her plan to go straight to Assisi, skipping the next stage. One of her reasons was that she was getting too much sun and she had no sun-cream. I let her use my spray-on suncream as the rain earlier on this way had left me with plenty to spare.

The path from Biscina

The weather now was really pleasant. Leaving Biscina one passes the Castello di Biscina on a prominent outcrop overlooking the valley. There was a lot of work going on - it is either becoming a magnificent private residence, a luxury hotel, or a headquarters for some international spy ring.

Castello di Biscina

The walk went past some very large fields of young wheat - the breeze made the wheat sway in elegant waves as one walked past.

The path then descended into woods and some of the muddiest and slippery tracks so far.

What amused me was that, on surfacing from the woods after about 4km, there was a sign pointing back down into the valley for horse-riders. There was zero chance of a horse making its way down this muddy trail, at least not with a rider on its back.

The way then requires one to cross the floor of the valley whcih contains the Lago di Valfabbrica. There is a route that takes one over a mountain - or one that crosses via a dam. The dam seemed to be a better option after the mud of the morning and it was even recommended by my handy Cicerone guidebook.

After the dam it was all plain sailing. One interesting little area had signs up saying it was reserved for truffles...

..but a few yards later it said the same space was reserved for pilgrims. Presumably pilgrims who like truffles.

The only building of note came after the dam, the little church of Barcaccia. It was apparently built by the local lord specifically to assist pilgrims. It also had the most magnificent rose bush across the road.

From the church it was about another 3 km into Valfabbrica.

The approach to Valfabbrica is rather ruined by an elevated autostrada running through the valley. However the historic centre of the town was superb. I had rented an apartment and so contacted the owner by WhatsApp to meet them and get in on arrival. I had just got out of the shower when there was a knock on the door - two Germans believing that they had rented the same apartment. Fortunately the owner arrived and took them to their dwelling before a land war broke out.

After that it was time for a beer and the little bar della Fontana in the square was a good palce to sit and watch other pilgrims arrive. Little Margot had beaten me to the bar but the miles were taking their toll - she simply fell asleep on my feet.

She was exhuasted, unlike the party of Americans who arrived in the square with matching green shirts proclaiming themselves as pilgrims. Would have been a little more convincing if they hadn't got out of a minibus and were not wearing jeans (no pilgrim wears jeans - they are just too heavy to carry).

Dinner, including Margot, was at Sui Passi di Francesco. The food was very good and Margot showed that despite her exhaustion she was still prepared to take on all-comers, barking at every other dog that came in.

I really liked this little town.