Day 19 - Ourense to Cea
- Pilgrim Nick
- Jun 30, 2021
- 2 min read
Updated: Jul 31, 2023
Now, I've walked from Ourense to Cea before when I did the VdlP. So there is an alternative route out of Ourense which looked like it was worth a shot. One crosses the river and then turns west and heads over some hills.
I cut north a bit too early after crossing over a railway line and did a fairly steep climb through a unspoilt landscape.



I don't know how many other people will ever do this route but I thought I would start the ball rolling with the traditional cross in a wire fence thing.

After a few km, came into the village of Seoane. It looked like there should be a way through but it wasn't obvious. A nice chap on a scooter tried to tell me that I would have to do a three or four km detour but after I declined his redirection he relented and showed me a path downhill. He wasn't hopeful though. The path led to a river which was not passable.
Except the mighty Rio do Porto turned out to be a stream that was barely trickling under a little bridge. So, no problem and up the other side of the valley into Requeixo where I finally came across the man with a hedge trimmer who had been disturbing the peace for the last hour. As I arrived, he finally stopped. Then from Requeixo it was 2km up an unrelenting hill.

Someone was clearly not happy about the lockdown.
Decided to stop at this rather nice restaurant, Outarelo, in Cima da Costa. It was almost empty so I sat down outside and then had a superb meal. By the time the meal was over, the restaurant was packed inside and out.

After lunch, then it was probably one of the nicest walks I have done. No traffic, just several kms of flat, shaded, sunny walking.


It was a good job that Outarelo was open as the only other stop on the route, Casa Cesar was closed

The way continued with soft dirt tracks and shade. Just perfect.
A few miles from the destination, Bar Mandras provided a welcome beer stop in, guess where, Mandras.

And then into Cea, with its iconic tower.


Every restaurant save one in Cea was closed. Bar Vaticano was open but when I went in and asked about food the bar woman explained that they were not serving food that evening. I persisted - what about ham, cheese? Of course we have that she said. And out came bread, ham, cheese, wine...it was more than a good enough dinner.
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