Day 17 – 2/3 of the Way done

I was glad to leave the grotty hotel at Hospital. I think the people in the next room were robbed and I didn’t like staying somewhere so un-Camino like. Today was a real blessing. After about 15 minutes I had arrived in the charming little village below and had a super breakfast in the Cafe Pris. Then a short 11 mile walk up some gentle slopes to the old Roman town of Astorga or, as they used to call it, Asturica Augusta.

A warm welcome for pilgrims

It was perfect walking weather. Warm with a refreshing breeze. One thing one keeps noticing now are the mountains ahead. A few days ago, they were a slight rise in the horizon. Now they are starting to loom and the snow is very apparent. The picture below was one of those perfect Camino shots of pilgrims marching on. A nice French chap took my pic at the same place but as I forgot to take my hat off I look like I am missing half my head.

Mountains getting closer

One of the sweetest things I’ve come across was below. Next to a broken down mud barn in the middle of nowhere – at least two miles from any house – there was a makeshift lean-to and the little cart below. A number of people were milling about. It was a cantina. There were the most delicious, perfectly ripe, strawberries, freshly cut water-melon, any number of juices and various carbs if you needed them. It was all free. The young guy who seemed to be running it had good English and said, “help yourself. If you want to make a donation, you are free to do so but please you are under no obligation to do so”. I had some fruit, made a donation and walked on. It so lifted my spirits to see such trust and caring in operation.

La Cantina

After last night, I decided to upgrade a little and am staying at La Case de Tepa, in the Camino del Santiago room appropriately. Napoleon Bonaparte apparently stayed here but why they think that is a selling point for an Englishman, heaven only knows (“would you like to stay in our premium suite, sir? That room has been graced by Hitler, Ian Brady and Jimmy Savile”). Just don’t get it. Anyway, it’s a great hotel, very central and quiet. The crockery is that Villeroy and Boche French Garden stuff we have at home so they are clearly pushing the French connection.

La Case de Tepa

Just to lower the tone, I washed my socks in the bathroom sink. judging by the water, I think they were a tad dirty.

Unpleasant

Anyway, I had a little look around the town. It’s an interesting place with a lot of history, having been founded by the X Legion in AD14 or so, although it has been populated for at least 3000 years before that. It is where one of the other pilgrimage routes – the Via de la Plata from Seville – to Santiago merges with the Camino Frances. It’s the centre of the Maragateria, a culture I had never heard of before. No-one knows where they come from (there about 4,000 of them left). Theories include; a tribe of Berbers who came over with the Moors and switched to Christianity; the followers of a Visigoth king called Mauregto; or the name is a derivation of Mauri capti – captured Moors who were made to work the mines. There were a lot of gold and silver mines in the area so it has always been important economically – more recently it was the first place to make chocolate with cocoa beans brought to Europe so it has a lot of chocolate shops although the one below was my favourite.

Chocolate Heaven

It has also the most bizarre Gaudi-designed Bishop’s Palace that looked like it has just landed from Disneyland. No longer used by the church, it now houses a rather good Museum of the Camino with some nice artefacts and pilgrim paintings.

Gaudi’s Bishop’s Palace

The left leg is continuing to bother me as is the world’s largest blister on my left foot. However tomorrow is another short hop of just 14 miles so very manageable. In fact, I could probably hop it. I might have to.

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