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Day 2 Castilblanco to Almaden de la Plata

  • Writer: Pilgrim Nick
    Pilgrim Nick
  • Nov 25, 2015
  • 2 min read

Updated: Dec 13, 2020

A 29km day which would normally not be an issue but in the short days of late November, this was a bit of a push. Glorious sunshine again. The first 15km or so was a trot along a fairly quiet road which was easy. Then one turns into.a huge estate and the walk is through the beautiful oak forests that dominate so much of the landscape. With all these acorns of course, this is the land of the iberico ham. And before you can eat the ham, those black pigs need to go foraging. About as free range as it is possible to get.

These black pigs are theoretically sealed off from pilgrims by little wire fences. This is Andalucia and the fences were more there in spirit rather than in presence. Accordingly, I was seen off by several groups of rather aggressive little black pigs who objected strongly to my trespassing on their turf. I tried to explain that I wasn't that keen on acorns but they weren't buying that.

The walk was very pleasant but as the sun was setting, one comes to a very steep hill. Very steep. I had to walk sideways to get up the slope. But from the top, the view was magnificent.


It was dark before arrival in Almaden. On getting to the hotel, it was a bit disconcerting to find the place locked and dark.

No matter. I had a phone. So I called the hotel and got through to the owner who explained that he wasn't there. He was in the car somewhere. But no matter, someone would let me in. Soon. 30 minutes later a man turned up on a motorcycle. He asked if I was locked out. I said yes and he shook his head sadly. And then rode off.

Eventually after about an hour a young woman, the owner's daughter, turned up. She was also apologetic but explained that she had been at her daughter's open evening at school...

Food at the welcoming and very pilgrim-friendly Casa Concha cafe across the road was very welcome. After a day with no stops, I made provision to buy a bottle of wine to top up a water bottle for the next day.

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