Day 1 - Braga to Terras do Bouro

The Camino da Geira y Dos Arrieiros is a relatively new way to Santiago, only being recognised by the Cathedral in 2019. It was a traditional route north-south used by the Romans (as we shall see) but a local band of enthusiasts decided to resurrect the way. It has a number of unique features, including crossing the Portugal/Spain border three times and having its own route into Santiago at the end with great views of the Cathedral.

It's a mere 239km but it is certainly not one I would recommend for a first time peregrino. There is only one albergue and quite long stretches without infrastructure. Doing this route in July was challenging, largely due to having to carry a vast amount of water in one's pack. There is also the matter of the ranges of mountains that stretch pretty well along the entire route. That being said it is a stunningly beautiful way and I hope that it grows in popularity. Certainly the people one meets on this route are delighted to see pilgrims and there is none of the weariness that one can sometimes encounter on the more popular routes. About 500 people had completed this route in 2025 by the time I passed through.

Like many caminos, this one starts with a walk through the suburbs, this time of Braga. Having looked around the historic centre of Braga the day before I decided I wanted to keep the memories of the cathedral in my head rather than 1960's apartment buildings so it was a taxi to the outskirts. One quickly arrives at the Monastery of Rendufe and then the countryside starts with the first climb along a cobbled path.

The first of many climbs...

Lunch was at a pilgrim-friendly cafe in Caldelas. Noted for being the only place with an albergue on this camino it also had a post office with a range of Camino merchandise inside. Haven chosen a nifty wristband, I then had to wait while the postmaster rang the guy who produces them to find out the price. Apparently one of the prime advocates for this route lives in Caldelas - obviously a great guy but should really get round to printing a price list.

From Caldelas to the top of the next hill is a climb of about 10% over 5km. This is where the lack of training really hit. There were however some interesting sights.

The camino runs through a building in Real - you walk through the arches of this abandoned pile.

My first view of a horreo which doubled as a lintel for a gate.

A magnificent view from close to the top of the hill, after a very welcome drink at the Cafe Mercearia.

And if one one is any doubt about being on an old Roman road, a metal centurion awaited one in the village of Souto.

The sort of path that makes one so glad to be back on camino.

And multiple Roman milestones, standing here for 17-18 centuries

Arrived at Terras do Bouro in good time for dinner. Staying a bit outside town (about a 30 minute walk away) I was delighted to find Cafe Brito a stone's throw away. I checked what time the kitchen closed and then showered before heading out for a meal. Unfortunately while the kitchen may have been open, they weren't doing food. However the lovely owner made some delicious cheese and ham toasties, which with beer, a few crisps and an ice-cream made for a perfectly good meal. The only mistake was asking for an aguardente. Two bottles were produced, one with a label, one without. The little glass from the labelled bottle was strong but palatable. The little glass from the unlabelled bottle...well just to say even trying it attracted a crowd of amused onlookers.

Then back to the hotel and a final drink ejoying the night sky. Ended up chatting to a young Portuguese couple who were struggling with exactly the same problems as young people all over Europe. No wonder there is so much disillusionment with the governing blob.