Day 7 - Ribadavia to Pazos de Arenteiro

Today I had a tough choice. Continue along the official route - or maybe take a little diversion along the evocatively named Camino do Vino.

It wasn't a hard choice. The Camino do Vino left town along the Rio Avia and apart from a short stretch along the 504, this was a very rural walk. Second coffee was at Bar Kuma in Beade after which one crosses over to the East bank. The path then winds next to the river north along a gentle and flat path.

East bank of the River Avia

At Leiro there was a little crossing over the river back to the West bank.

River Avia

In Leiro, again the first cafe said that they did not do food - I'm not sure why as it was about 1:30. However they pointed out that there was a restaurant on the way out of town. It looked closed but the door opened and I found a very pleasant restaurant - A Garrafeira - with tables outside overlooking the river. By the time I left, the place was packed, another reminder of how different meal-times are in Spain. A cheery American at the next table wished me a Buen Camino as I left.

Ponte Da Cruz

After Leiro it was time to head back up from the valley and back into the hills. Soon the yellow arrows reappeared and it was a gentle road walk to Pazos. The bridge above was just outside Pazos and didn't look to be in good condition.

Pazos itself was an interesting little village. It had suffered badly from depopulation over the last few decades, losing their school and doctor as a result. An entrepreneur who had spent 15 years in London was valiantly attempting to revitalise the village by converting old buildings into accommodation. He was most engaging and keen to encourage the pilgrimage route.

As it was still relatively early, I headed out to the Arenteiro river to the east of the village. I wanted to go upstream to a waterfall but the boardwalk alongside the bank had collapsed. Instead I went downstream back to to the ruined bridge and had a little paddle in the cool waters. The path ran alongside a set of ruined houses, apparently from when milling was a major industry in the area. Now however only these ghostly ruins remained.

Back in the village I was delighted to see the church open. The locals were busy cleaning in time for the big celebration on the 25th.

The Church of San Salvador

Dinner at the hotel where the owner had prepared a very tasty pilgrim menu, washed down with some cold white wine. Entertainment was provided by a very cute chocolate labrador on one side who was waiting for any food to fall on the floor and a one-eyed cat on the other side who was waiting for food to be served on a silver platter.